I’ll admit it, when Alan said that he wanted to take a tour on a float plane, I was more than a bit apprehensive. I don’t like flying at the best of times, so I wondered how different I would feel in a floating tin can. Every time I board an airplane, I marvel at how such large objects defy the laws of gravity, the odds never seem in my favor. My brother is a commercial pilot. I know the rigors of training that he has gone through to be called such. This and the safety statistics are about the only things that bring me comfort as I rationalize the odds of dying on any given flight. It was Alan’s turn to choose how we would explore by the letter “A” . On each adventure we have an agreement to go along with whatever is chosen by the other. Besides, the buffet on board the cruise ship would be boring on my own! Weeks before this trip, I had extensively researched the various tour companies and the best possible ways to see the monumental, Misty Fjord, near Ketchikan, Alaska. After extensive research into safety records, I booked our tour with a privately run company called Island Wings. Our pilot, Michelle’s name came up continuously on travel sites and the comments were always favorable. Because of her record, she is one of only a few pilots, given permission to land directly at the remote landmark. Hers was also one of the only tours that would allow us to step off the planes pontoons and on to land, for any period of time.
As was normal for this area, it had just started pouring with rain when our driver Shona, picked us up in front of our predetermined point; the local landmark, better known as the “liquid sunshine rain gauge.” Located in front of the Visitors Center, it stands about twenty feet tall. It was hard to miss but as the drenching rain continued, it became easier to believe that they receive about twelve feet of rain in Ketchikan each year! Alan and I were just thankful to discover that our newly purchased raingear, was in fact waterproof! As we were selecting it, we wanted to make sure we would always be able to find each other in a crowd, so we had chosen matching, bright red jackets. This was a change from our comfort colors of black or tan. We hadn’t really considered how many tour operators also have the same idea in mind. The jackets were now acting like beacons on this grey morning. Maybe that is why we kept being approached by other travelers for directions! Shona located us quickly, then laughed apologetically as she announced that the plane was actually parked directly in front of our ship, now a mile away! Since this had been the designated meeting point, Alan and I had walked into town to meet her. Passing the three other ships docked on the waterfront, our walk had not been in vain. It gave us time to admire the beautiful flowers along the pier. Then, as we approached a large memorial statue, aptly titled, “The Rock”, we contemplated the seven life sized figures, each reflecting the pilgrimage that was required to settle the great state of Alaska! Soon we would meet the four other people that would join our tour; a pair of teachers from Georgia and a brother and sister from California.
The grey clouds hung low over the town, smothering the light. We were skeptical of the views we would have from the air, but comforted by the locals as they assured us that just a few miles away, the weather might be very different. Alaska flight regulations differ from the lower states, allowing transportation in nearly all kinds of weather, no matter how extreme. This was the other reason I had selected Michelle. Her website stated she was, “dedicated to our satisfaction and would cancel our flight if we were unable to enjoy our tour for either expected turbulence or limited visibility.”
After arriving at the plane, the six of us made our way down a steep ramp to the dock at water level. We inquired why there were no stairs to the landing platform. Apparently, the tide rises and falls up to twenty-five feet each day! It was hard to believe the ramp would be almost level when we returned in just a couple of hours. Shortly after arriving, we heard the roar of a plane engine. It was thrilling to watch the deHavilland Beaver, gently set down on her pontoons and land directly in front of our cruise ship! Witnessing the smooth landing, my fear of flying momentarily eased. I could do this!
Island Wings Plane landing in front of Grand Princess
Michelle greeted each of us and assigned us to our seats. Being the tallest, Alan folded his six plus feet, into the front seat. A second set of flying instruments sat in front of him. As he maneuvered himself over the equipment, he was advised not to step on any of it! I was placed in the single seat at the back, which gave me two windows to look out of. Alan and I each felt that we had the premium seat!
“Alan”, I said as he turned around to check on me, “I love you”. There were no more words needed, he just gave me that comforting grin that he always offers just before we take off on a flight. We were introduced to all of the emergency items should we need them. The fire extinguisher was under one seat, a first aid kit under another. I made a mental note that there was water and food on board should we require them. Although I don’t know how long Michelle’s single boiled egg and cut vegetables would have sustained the six of us, should we become lost in the 2 million miles of wilderness that we would be entering. I wonder, are bears attracted to boiled eggs? Following a safety briefing, we all donned headsets that would allow us to communicate with each other and with Michelle. This personalized communication was another big difference from the pre-recorded narration provided by other companies. Besides, with these huge earphones on, I couldn’t hear the whirring of the engine, I was left alone with my thoughts! Finally, we were off!
Surrounded by the silence, I was lost in contemplation,
“What if today was the last day that I spent on this earth? What would my children think about their mother overcoming her fears? Could they imagine the beautiful things that I have been so fortunate to see? How would I write about this exceptional opportunity? I hope my camera cards survive if we crash!”
Except for seeing the cruise ship grow smaller in the distance, I hardly noticed that we had lifted off.
Hoping to spot a pod of Orca’s, that she had seen on her last flight, Michelle soon had all of our noses pressed against the clear plexiglass windows. We were unable to find them, but the curiosity now had our rapt attention. Like all good teachers, perhaps this was Michelle’s way of getting us to silently observe the spectacular scenery that had begun passing below us. Just miles outside of Ketchikan, we were already in awe at how much the landscape had changed. Not a word passed between us, as we came upon the famous Eddystone Rock, a 250 foot tall pillar of hardened basalt, remnants of a now extinct volcano. Even from this height, it was impressive to see the broken, haphazard columns that had been created by the flow of hot magma repeatedly rising to the surface over 5 million years ago. Lime green algae that surrounds the island at low tide, sits in stark contrast to the hardened earth. In a couple of hours, as tour boats arrive, all that will be visible of this landmark, will be the spire.
The Misty Fjords National Monument lies about 40 miles east of Ketchikan and is part of the Tongass National Forest. In December of 1978, then President, Jimmy Carter, declared over 2 million acres of this area a protected wilderness area. It is one of the largest areas of protected land in the U.S.A. As rugged mountains rise from the valley floor, it is easy to see why famous author and naturalist, John Muir once compared the this area to that of Yosemite. Transformed by this eagle eye view, I can no longer be fearful of falling out of the sky! I yield to my creative mind, imagining myself drifting over this wilderness, soaring near the lakes that hang at the edge of the mountains, suspended over cascading waterfalls tumbling thousands of feet below. I watch as rivers merge with the sea, the density of the water changing, as fresh glacial waters mingles with saltwater As if by magic, the rain has suddenly stopped. I press my hand against the window, trying to touch the granite walls now passing, seeming inches beyond my view. We have reached the summit of the 4,000 foot tall mountains. I peer down to see another plane flying below us. I contemplate the different perspective that its passengers will have.
Suddenly we are making a hard turn into the fjord. We are approaching a very narrow opening. As large sand flats give way to water, we are slowly coming to a stop. I marvel at the simplicity and smoothness of it all. Michelle is instantly excited by something moving near the tree line on the island ahead of us. She determines that there is a Grizzly Bear on the shore! I was not expecting to see any bears on our trip. They are usually more active in July and August and we were here in early June. Michelle says this is the first she has seen this season. At first she seems apprehensive about letting us get out of the plane. After analyzing the situation for several minutes, we are finally allowed to go ashore, with the simple request that we remain quiet. The bear is still about 100 yards away but most of us are able to focus on her, with our long camera lenses. But what is this we see? Suddenly, there are three more pairs of ears peaking over the tall blades of grass! She has triplets! We spend the next half an hour in quiet serenity. In a futile attempt at capturing this beauty, we are all taking pictures. Aware that few humans have set foot in these forests, Michelle gently encourages us to put our cameras down and just observe while we inhale the pure, pine scented air. I realize that I have now also had my “B” themed adventure, a “bucket list item” of viewing the “bears”! As a “bonus” I have seen the “babies” too! I will add these to my exploring by letters list. All too soon, we retrace our flight path and return to civilization, landing safely in front of our ship. Seeing the next passengers gathered on the dock, Michelle asks us not to tell them about the bear. She knows that it is unlikely it will remain in the area for the next tour and she doesn’t want to disappoint them. We all emerge from the plane full of smiles, secrets and the promise of an amazing adventure that lies ahead for the next travelers. “Alan”, I say as I grab his hand and head toward our ship, “I love you. Thank you for another amazing adventure. When can we go again?”
