“J” is for Journey (Vietnam)

March 29, 2026

A journey, as defined by an AI search,  is “the act of traveling from one place to another, typically implying a long, adventurous, or significant trip rather than a short commute.”  Today was the first of four cities we would explore in the country of Vietnam.

There are only five countries which are officially communist, Vietnam is one of them.  Communism in its simplest explanation strives to eliminate the gap between rich and poor by sharing resources based on the principle:  “From each according to his ability, to each according to his needs”.  We wondered if we would feel any difference based on a vast contrast of ideology between our two countries. This year, Vietnam is said to be strengthening its security and police forces.  Our first observation was the visitor entrance stamp we were each given by the on board immigration official, as we departed the ship.

We had docked in the busy port city of Phu My, which is about one and a half hours away from Ho Chi Minh City, formerly known as Saigon.  With more than 10 million people, Ho Chi Minh is the most populous city in Vietnam.  Normally, I’m not a fan of city tours but due to America’s involvement with Vietnam, this one felt more obligatory to visit than others.

I was young in the late 1960’s and early1970’s, when the images of war were telecast all day on our black and white television. My only awareness of Vietnam before this trip was through the lens of the Vietnam War and how it relates to Americas history. To this day, the war is largely not discussed in the USA and therefore my knowledge of this country is still fairly limited.  Saigon (now called Ho Chi Minh city) was the headquarters for U.S. military operations during the Vietnam war.

Although there are many historical tours offered, I was not necessarily on a mission to do an American history tour.  Like all of the exploration we take, I wanted a bit of everything, some culture, some history and plenty of things to photograph.   I expected the constant noise, smells and motorbikes normally associated with what I knew about Vietnam but I didn’t realize how touched I would be at the grit and endurance of the Vietnamese people.  I spent the hour and a half bus journey with my nose pressed to the windows, watching as we passed through small villages.  The streets were alive as sidewalks doubled as barbershops, scooter parking and cafes.   I was struck by the number of people selling items from their bikes and motorbikes, many of which chased the bus from location to location, in a desperate attempt to make an additional sale or two.  Capitalism seemed alive here and countered my understanding of communist countries. There are indeed rules in this communist country, but they seem very relaxed.  The tour guide explained that they have a lot of freedom, except political.  The ruling party tolerates no opposition, no free press and no real public dissent.   Ultimately, the message is, don’t criticize the communist party and you will mostly be left alone.

The port city eventually gave way to rice paddy fields and a host of oil and rubber tree plantations. Crossing the Saigaon river, Ho Chi Minh city finally came into view.  From afar it gleamed with modern buildings, it was another moment that conflicted with my preconceived notions. Formerly known as Saigon, the city was founded in 1698 and was once part of Cambodia.  In 1862 it was colonized by the French.  The Vietnam war was a long battle between the north and south. America held a military presence here for nearly 20 years.  When the Vietnam War ended in 1975, the North Vietnamese claimed victory over the South.  Saigon was a symbol of the reunification of the country and was renamed Ho Chi Minh City in 1976,  to honor the late communist leader Ho Chi Minh.  Many older Vietnamese people still call it Saigon.

Our tour today included only the briefest explanation of America’s involvement but what I found most interesting was the evolutionary and cultural journey we unknowingly took, as we traveled through a timeline of Vietnamese history.  At the end of the day, it would take a long re-evaluation of my notes to realize what we had seen and done and how interconnected it had actually been. Unfortunately our tour guide didn’t really offer that connection and I would be left to my own research to piece together the value of what we had seen.

We were first taken to the National History Museum of Vietnam.  During the French colonial rule, the beautiful building was originally built as a branch of the French School of the Far East.  The architecture is a combination of Colonial French and Vietnamese. While not a fan of big cities,  I am also not a huge fan of museums.  They do serve the purpose of consolidating education into bite sized pieces.  This museum covers from the prehistoric era to the August 1945 Revolution when the Democratic Republic of Vietnam was founded.   This spring a new exhibit was introduced called “Spring-The Dawn of Victory”, covering the era from 1946 to present.   Our time here was limited to just an hour, so as we began our cattle prod tour for the day, we only had time to explore a few exhibits and our guide did a poor job of educating us to the “why” we were seeing those areas.  I did enjoy photographing some of the amazing artifacts on display.

Basically the museum represents two regions, the north and the south, divided into two cultural areas who didn’t agree on anything and were in a battle with each other for thousands of years.  When Saigon was renamed, there was great hope that the two areas could become unified.  The museum reflects the goals of the intentions and future of the country of Vietnam.  Admittedly, it was a good place to start our tour.  Armed with a brief overview of history and culture we could now set out to better appreciate the city.

By mid-morning, the outside temperature was beginning to warm up to the 90’s, with about 90% humidity.  We were thankful that our next adventures were indoors.   The destination was a mid- century, architectural masterpiece known as Reunification Hall, also called Independence Palace.  This building is as significant as a tour of our own White House.  On the outside, the structure offers sleek lines, open spaces, and a design symbolizing power and authority, which is fitting since it was  originally built for the governor.  It would eventually become the command center during the Vietnam War. Each floor reveals its own stories.  The ground floor holds the elegance and grandeur expected to host and entertain dignitaries, the first floor was for private quarters, the second for receiving  and entertaining  delegations and the third for quiet contemplation and personal leisure.  The real interest for most people lies in the secret bunkers, war rooms and communication center located in the basement.

 

After a Liberation Army of South Vietnam tank crashed through the gates on April 30, 1975, the building has also been associated with the official end of the war, more commonly known as the “fall of Saigon”.   Today the palace is preserved as a convention hall for state events and a museum.

 

Sometimes while traveling, the smallest of moments creates the biggest of impacts. A group of students was waiting to tour the facility. They were actively trying to engage the Western looking tourists,  They were so excited to meet an American and practice their English.  I asked if I could take their photo. It was very touching as they blew kisses and formed hearts with their hands, sometimes communication is loudest in silence, a perfect example of the very barriers that travel breaks down.  My heart was full as I engaged with these young ambassadors.

On our whirlwind visit, we had a couple additional photo opportunities and all of them involved great architecture, which is a passion of mine.  Located in the center of the city, Notre Dame Cathedral of Saigon was built in the late 19th century, the cathedral features twin bell towers reaching nearly 200 feet high.  The red brick walls were imported from France as were the beautiful stained glass windows.  Unfortunately the building was covered in scaffolding, minimizing the grandeur of this great structure and my ability to get great photos.

The French Colonial Post Office, built between 1886 and 1891 is located next door to the basilica.  This was our next stop and a premier example of French Colonial architecture featuring a grand vaulted hall, patterned tiled floors and intricate iron supports designed to mirror European train stations. Everything about this space, from the original phone boxes to the massive circular counter, is interesting.  This is a major tourist attraction, so people watching was just as fascinating as choosing a post card to send from this still operational post office.  I could have spent significantly more time here, but we were limited by the 15 minute time frame we were given and I was on a mission to choose post cards and obtain stamps, so that I could get the cards written before leaving Vietnam.  It turns out that the post office shorted the postage required for post cards and I had to chase additional stamps later in the week anyway!  I will save the topic of mailing post cards, while on holiday, for a different post but let’s just say it is a labor of love when we are overseas!  The area around the post office is also a wonderful open air market.  For a brief moment, I wished I hadn’t been on a tour, so that I could just revel in the atmosphere of this extraordinary place.

By now, we had worked up quite the appetite.  The great thing about being on a cruise sponsored excursion is that meals are often at high end hotels…the kind I can’t afford to stay at but which lunch is a special luxury.   This particular lunch was at the 5 star, Windsor Plaza Hotel.  There was an added bonus that Western style food was served alongside all the traditional Vietnamese options, which made my husband very happy!  In the wonderfully air conditioned grandeur of this place, we were serenaded by traditional music played on Vietnamese instruments.

Our bellies once again full, we continued on our busy schedule.   Our next stop was the Thien Hau Temple. Arriving as immigrants around the 17th century, a small population of Chinese, numbering between 750,000 to over 2 million, known as the Hoa people, settled in urban areas such as Ho Chi Minh.  They  brought with them their own rich heritage of traditions.  Around 1760, the ornate temple was built to worship Thien Hau (Mazu), a Chinese deity.  Thien Hau (Mazu) is the revered sea goddess. It’s said that her birth brought forth a sweet fragrance and radiant light. Gifted with magic, she flew over the ocean on a mat, to save those in danger. After passing away, she often appeared in red, gliding above the waves. She is one of the most widely worshiped deities among overseas Chinese, who journeyed across the sea to settle in new lands. The temple serves as a spiritual and cultural hub for the Hoa people, preserving their rich heritage and traditions for future generations.

Next it was time for a bit more culture as we toured the Dat Viet Lacquer Factory.  Lacquerware is one of Vietnam’s biggest exports.  This 800 year old traditional craft uses a natural resin from the son tree, to create a polished, durable and glossy item. Each piece takes months to create, as up to 30 layers of resin are often applied.  The craftsman must wait days between each layer for the lacquer to dry. Beyond the sap, artisans will incorporate natural materials such as eggshell, mother of pearl, gold and/or silver leaf, to create intricate designs between each of the layers.  Once the desired number of layers are reached, the piece is then given a final polish.  Of course we were drawn in to purchase a piece (which I am sure is the intention of bringing us here) but seeing the process of this handiwork makes our souvenir that much more meaningful and we will forever reflect on what it takes to create such a treasure.  For this keepsake we selected what we are calling “Love Birds” to commemorate our 43 years of marriage and to remind us of this extraordinary adventure.

For our final stop we were taken to Cho’ Ben Thanh Market, also known as Saigon Market.   We had officially reached the heart of the city.  The sprawling French inspired architecture of the building is imposing, standing in the center of several bustling streets. Over more than a century, the Ben Thanh Market has not only been a bustling trading place but also a historical witness associated with the ups and downs of Saigon. There are nearly 1,500 booths to explore and more than 6,000 small businesses are represented.  The massive market is divided into four sections with souvenir shops and handicrafts grouped together.  There is another section for fresh foods, seafood and street food stalls, while clothing and accessories are in another section.  Dried goods and local specialties make up the final grouping of stalls.  With over 10,000 people visiting each day, it was interesting but also completely overwhelming with the vendors hustling for business and wall to wall people. Except for the snakes and insects in bottles, most stalls were selling the same things. We lasted about 15 minutes before making our way back outside. We returned to the bus to wait for the remainder of the tour group to finish shopping.  I had more fun watching a woman from the window of the bus. She had been dropped off on the back of a motorbike and unpacked a variety of stacked baskets, to create a full service farmers market right on the sidewalk.  I imagined most of the produce had been grown at her home.  I wondered what her story was. What would she share about her country?  Perhaps she had already given me a glimpse through that window.

I spent the hour and a half of the return journey, reflecting on the timeline of history which we had covered. It had indeed been a cattle prod tour, the kind we generally try to avoid, but reminiscing upon our day we realized that we had, had a wonderful overview of history and immersion in culture.  Overall, we were happy we had picked this “Best of” tour at the beginning of our Vietnam journey.

“H” is for Heartland (Thailand)

The term heartland refers to an area which is “essential to the viability and survival of the whole.  By concentrating resources and focusing on economic and political self- sufficiency, the area serves to become impervious to attack.”

For our 5th and 6th day we are docked in Leam Chebang overnight.  It is nearly 2 hours from the major city of Bangkok. Some people have gone to Bangkok for the two days.  The ship tour was mostly focused on food (not our thing), so we are on two, private, day tours instead and as a bonus we get to return to the ship to sleep and eat…no repacking!  We have chosen to split our adventures between  the cities of Bangkok and Pattaya, to try to experience as much variety as we can.  (More on our Pattaya adventure soon).  Our guide for the two days is called Pooh.  She exudes happiness and it instantly sets the tone for the time our group of 8 people,  will spend with her.  From the moment we begin our drive to Bangkok she keeps us busy, trying different Thai snacks and pointing out interesting things to see along the way.

We watch in awe as the motorbikes navigate the busy roadways,  weaving between busses, nearly disappearing under the wheels., riding knee to knee with other motorbikes and scooters.   This is the most common form of transportation and there appear to be few rules of the road., except to read the expressions  of the drivers and feel the rhythm of the traffic.  There are no horns used in Thailand, it is considered offensive.  Traffic is as automatic as a a heartbeat. Sometimes entire families ride on a single motorbike.,  We saw newborns strapped to their mothers, a child holding her dog,  The industrial area seemed to stretch from the port all the way to Bangkok.  We passed time by noting the differences between our home and Thailand.  We marveled at the massive excess cables coiled on poles, meant to quickly restore electricity to the cities. Not one person asked “Are we there yet” on the two hour journey!

Bangkok is  home to 10 million people, the undisputed heartland of Thailand, serving as its primary political, economic and cultural center and it was our destination for this day.  The 12 hour experience was a complete sensory thrill and a photographer’s paradise. Everything in Thailand is colorful.  As we approached, the city, gleamed with skyscrapers built alongside ancient temples. Everywhere I looked seemed to be either sparkling, white or gold.  There are over 30,000 temples throughout Thailand so you never have to look far to find the next one!   We would be visiting four locations today and I expected to fall in love with this country even more than I had in 2023.

Our first stop was the Royal Grand Palace.  I am going to have to revisit each place on different posts for an in depth explanation of the significance, to do each area justice.

The Royal Grand Palace represents one of the most important places in all of Thailand. Construction began in 1782 under  King Rama I.  The palace would serve as the official residence of kings until 1925.  During this period it was not only an administrative site but also the religious capital of Thailand.  Rather than being a single structure, the Grand Palace is comprised of numerous buildings, halls and pavilions set around open lawns, gardens and courtyards.

As we strolled through the site we tried to picture it when it was home to thousands of guards, princesses and servants.  There were so many people who called this home, that it was once referred to as a city within a city.   Today, over eight million people a year visit to see this spectacular architectural wonder!

By the early 20th century, more palaces had been built around the country.  Although the Kingdom had already started moving away from the Bangkok Palace, the end of the monarchy in 1932 was the last time the Royal Grand Palace was used as a home.

Our next stop was the Royal Temple , which is actually a chapel, within the Royal Grand Palace.  It has all the features of a temple, except for living quarters for the monks.  This sacred space holds the Emerald Buddha, which has been located here since 1784 but it is much older than that and traveled around the country for years, working miracles. When the Royal Grand Palace was built, King Rama I created a special temple to house it. With the reverence given to this Buddha I expected a massive figure. The green colored statue is only 26 inches tall but sits atop a 29.5 foot high pedestal! He is not emerald in color at all, but rather a deep green, likely carved from jade or jasper. He has 3 outfits, made of gold, which are changed seasonally by the current King, The Emerald Buddha is one of the few Buddha’s in the country which may not be photographed, except from the doorway of the temple.  In the Thai culture, bowing is a customary way of showing respect. I had a very special experience as my tour guide showed me how to correctly bow and accept Buddha’s positive energy.  The Thai people believe the figure brings prosperity to their nation. It was very moving to partake in a ritual so personal to the Thai people.

 

After a couple of hours, we made our way to Wat Phra Chetuphon (Wat Pho) to see the Reclining Buddha.  It was very similar to the one we had seen in Phuket.  The massive Buddha is housed inside one of the buildings as part of a whole temple complex.  Wat Pho is actually the oldest temple complex in all of Bangkok.  In fact, it was here before Bangkok itself!  After the old capital was destroyed by the Burmese in 1767, King Rama I would expand the temple to add artifacts moved from Ayutthaya (the former capital).

 

In the early 19th century, Rama III would again expand the temple to help grow Thailand’s first university.  The Reclining Buddha now lies in a building that was constructed around the same time.

The image of Buddha lying down is meant to represent his final moments on earth, when he enters the state of nirvana.

As we were immersing deeper into the cultural side of the city.  the morning slipped slipped into afternoon . Next we stepped onto a long tail boat…another new mode of transportation to add to our ever-growing list of ways to travel.  A long tailed boat is basically a canoe with a roof and powered by a common automotive engine.  They are steered with a long paddle.

Canals (khlongs) were originally established to transport goods. These busy waterways are still used today.  The first canals were dug in the late 18th century when Rattanakosin (now Bangkok) became the capital of Thailand.  The canals were created by digging a wide trench, which linked to the Chao Phraya River.  More canals followed and became important, not just for the defense purposes but also for irrigation, drainage, trade and transportation.  By the 19th century, Bangkok had developed a big canal network with hundreds of kilometers of waterways.  It is during this period that the canals became known as the Venice of the East.

During the 20th century, the city expanded but shifted its focus to building new roads, rather than canals.  They are still used, they just hold less importance now that there are roadways.

 

The canal trip was a perfect juxtaposition to the  busy city and temples.  The water was filthy and life was happening all around us. Giant monitor lizards basked in the sun and egrets stood motionless waiting for a fish to happen by.    Houses built on stilts were often seen crumbling alongside ornate properties built of teak.  Along the canal, vendors hawked food and goods from passing boats and my camera simply couldn’t take it all in.  Our tour guide passed out what appeared to be brightly colored Cheeto’s, which we fed to the thousands of catfish occupying the murky waters.  The gaping mouths and thrashing bodies startled many of the guests., causing them to lean to one side of the longboat, which in turn shifted the balance.  For so many reasons, this was not a waterway I wanted to be dumped into!

Our last stop for today would be in the Flower Market. It was super hot and half of our group chose to stay in the van, missing one of the most beautiful parts of the tour.  We had arrived here at the end of the day, so the stalls were less full and the market was less busy.  Still, the market was very impressive.  As we watch a weathered garland maker ply her wares outside a five star hotel, I am once again struck at how past, present and future blend harmoniously,  It is thought that the flower markets evolved from the fish industry.  The flowers were brought in to cover the strong odors.   Eventually the flowers came to become their own market, providing service to the temples and villagers alike, so now instead of fish, there are garlands on ice and it seems every color of flower on earth was represented.  Many of the elaborate flower arrangements are created as alter pieces and sold to the wholesale market. As our guide walked us through the market, jasmine infused the air, creating a complete sensory experience to our day.

 

Our guide taught the 4 of us braving the heat, how to fold a lotus to reveal the flower. I purchased a small bouquet to bring back to our cabin. As is the Thai way, our guide was secretly purchasing  jasmine garlands for all of us, a blessing of sorts and a special treat for the others in our group who had sat out the flower market.

It was nearly 7pm by the time we were back on board the ship.  Bangkok had been a photographers playground with robed monks, tuk tuks, sparking temples, colorful boats and flower markets.

It had been a perfect day and I had a new bouquet of flowers to go in our room! I had even brought a collapsible vase specifically for this moment. The garland gift was hung on our wall and would grace our cabin for many days, the scents and beauty reminding us of the lovely Thai people we had met, beckoning us to return to the heartland for more.

 

CruiseTip:

You can bring fresh flowers on to the ship, you just can’t take any agricultural products off the ship.