Vietnam

“M” is for Magical-Halong Bay (Vietnam)

Posted on by Debbie

We fell in love with the idea of cruising Halong Bay, when our friend Sherri, cruised there last year.  The otherworldly scenery, of limestone pillars rising out of the waters in the South China Sea,  had called our name ever since.  This area is also dedicated as a UNESCO site.  Truth be told, much of this cruise had been selected for the itinerary, which would give us 2 full days to explore this region.

The name Ha’ long means “descending dragon.” Legend says, the dragons were sent there by gods to protect Vietnam from invaders.  The dragons spit jades and jewels to the sea which later turned into the islets and islands.  These 1600 islands created a protective wall to shield against enemies.

With 600 boats registered to explore the area, choosing the right tour for yourself is really important. It can be very busy but knowing where the boats go, there are still quiet places waiting to be discovered.  Almost every trip offered will include a tour of the islands, a cave tour and sometimes kayaking, with a stop at a pearl farm or floating village.

Yesterday we had been meant to sail through the area on a traditional junk boat.  A naturalist would be on board to describe the conservation process which is being done to save the stunning karsts (islands) rising out of the water and  the work they are doing to regulate the massive surge in tourism to the area. The limited amount of port time would only allow us the chance to explore on our own for a day, which is plenty really.  We were going to be visiting zone 4, which is one of the most unspoiled areas. This area is usually reserved only for the very wealthy or for tour boats on a 2 or 3 day cruise.  When our cruise line suddenly changed the excursion time of the water puppet show, by a 4 hour difference, we thought we might have to eliminate the cruise around the islands.  All was not lost, we just detoured and found a shorter excursion and were still able to do both activities, during the time we were in port.  It just meant a little less time around the islands and we only made it to zone 2,  My Dr. had wanted me to cancel the entire day and rest a little longer.  I decided if I could get on the tour boat, I would prop my foot up and enjoy the ride.  Our cruise ship would remain in port overnight and depart at 7a.m. the next morning.  This had allowed us to take in the water puppet show during the evening.

Most of the Halong Bay tours include a tour to a cave.  Some offer time kayaking and may visit an oyster farm or floating village.  Because we were on the shortened version of the trip, our excursion would only include the island tour and cave tour.

Alan would have to explore the cave on his own.  I was so proud of him for continuing to complete the tours even when I couldn’t.

The next morning we set off at 7am and began to slowly work our way through the islands and eventually sail out to sea. This is called  “scenic cruising” and when we are lucky enough to have it on an itinerary, it can be some of the most spectacular scenery of the entire trip.  Our second day in the area of Halong Bay did not disappoint.  There were many interesting sites to discover along the way. Many of the islands have names such as chicken rock and whale rock.

Even though we had seen a lot yesterday, I woke early to watch the sunrise before we set off, unfortunately it was another cloudy day.  As we moved out to sea, we had an entirely different perspective than we had, had the day before.  There were many interesting things happening in the bay.  I was fascinated with the logging and fishing boats.  There was a sort of market out here as people sold their produce directly from their boats.  It was a slow day for us,  as we passed the time on our balcony, watching the world go by.  We simply let nature work its magic.  In this place, at this moment, there are no politics, there are no worries.  On this 50 square foot space of our balcony, we can pretend we are alone, as we quietly move further away from the populated areas, watching the unspoiled beauty of the placid waters and vegetation covered karsts, as we sailed out to sea.  This is the reason we always book a balcony cabin.  We are so grateful to be here, to experience the magical beauty of this amazing place.

“L” is for Local Culture-Water Puppets (Vietnam)

Posted on by Debbie

 

Vietnam has been such an interesting country so far.  When we plan our trips, we start out with a huge wish list of ideas and Vietnam had been no exception.  Due to time constraints, our list had quickly whittled down to the most important must see/do activities, in what limited time we would have in each of our 4 ports.   The hours are even more precious while on a cruise, because it may be difficult to reach inland cities and return to the ship in a timely manner.

While puppetry exists in many countries around the world, water puppetry is exclusively found in Vietnam. Experiencing the 1000 year old art was very high on our “bucket list” but there are only a six professional puppetry troops, which still perform the ancient art.   We had found shows in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi which were 1 ½ and 2 hours away from our ports respectively.  Imagine my excitement when I realized that there was an excursion being offered, while we were in port at Halong Bay and it was only ½ hour away!  A single opportunity to catch this very unique art.

Water  puppetry emerged in the 10th century, during the Le dynasty. Villagers in the Red River delta and other rice-growing regions of northern Vietnam, staged water puppet performances; to celebrate the end of the rice harvest, at religious festivals, or simply for entertainment.  Today, the water puppet show is a small window into Vietnam’s culture, offering a glimpse into the traditional way of living.  As we took our seats in the specialized theater,  vocalists entered from the left, while instrumentalists came from the right.  The puppeteers stood behind a screen. The stage was a 3 foot deep, man made pond, in front of the screen, representing the rice paddy field.

The stories portrayed reflect everyday moments of local people, including farming, fishing, and celebrating festivals. Value messages are conveyed through the wooden puppets about family, working together peacefully, honoring nature, and preserving traditional ways.  All stories are told in Vietnamese but it is not difficult to figure out what the scene is about.

There are three ways to control the puppets. The smaller ones are attached to bamboo poles, rods, and strings which the artists tug at to move them around. The bigger puppets can weigh as much as 35 pounds each.  With the larger puppets, the upper part of the puppets, or the body represents the character, while the base is attached to the underwater machines, The strings and machines are hidden by the water, which is why the water is usually a dark murky green. Complicated puppets like the dragon usually require a combination of both machines and manual techniques.

Our show was about 50 minutes long and included 8 short stories. By the time we came to the end of the performance, we felt that we had been fully immersed in Vietnamese folklore, music and language.  This was a wonderful cultural experience.